I’ve already been in Changsha for more than a week and a
half. For those of you who have claimed you’ll come visit me at some point, my
trip took about 17 hours. It didn't feel as long as I remember, but I was very drained
by the time I arrived in Changsha. I just don’t want you to be caught off guard
J.
As I found my way to the Changsha terminal in the Beijing
airport, it was pretty obvious that I was leaving the internationalized
atmosphere of Beijing and heading to a city with a very different feel. On the
most basic level, I was the only non-Chinese person at the gate. In addition,
there was definitely less English in this domestic flight area than there had
been elsewhere in the airport. This was all predictable, I suppose, and was exactly
what I had been hoping for in my new experience, but it was pretty interesting
to actually see and feel the change happen.
When I arrived, I hopped into a cab and gave the driver the directions to Drew and Rachel’s house (friends who have lived in
Changsha for the last four years). I had quite a bit of difficulty understanding
the cab driver (his accent was pretty thick), but I didn't have too much
difficulty communicating what I needed from him. Drew met us at the front gate
of Central South University (CSU) and helped us find their apartment. By the
time I arrived, I fully understood why the girl sitting next to me on the plane
called Changsha one of China's four "ovens." It’s not much an exaggeration
to say that I've never been so happy in my life to enter a room with air
conditioning. We said a quick hello, then I took a shower and went
to bed.
The next day, Drew went to work, and Rachel and I went to
the open-air market with the little Addingtons [Titus, Jonathon (called 初初Chu1chu1),
and Michael (called迈迈 Mai4mai4)]. We also went to the
Foreign Student Office so I could register with the police. I ended up having
to come back later with some more paperwork, and they were able to assign me to
my dorm room a little earlier than I had expected. One of the other foreign students
(from Vietnam) took me to the dorm buildings, helped me check in, and showed me
my room.
With Drew and Rachel’s advice and guidance, I've spent most of my time here thus far trying to get myself organized moving my stuff into my dorm room
(aided by 杨聪, one of Drew and Rachel’s friends), buying stuff from
the market, opening bank accounts (one for the Foreign Student Office to use to
deposit my living allowance and one that actually has good service), getting a
Chinese cell phone number, getting internet hooked up in my room, buying a hot
water card and a laundry card, etc. Drew and Rachel have been kind enough to feed me
quite frequently since I arrived. Thankfully, Rachel can cook well, and I
even got some tastes of home I hadn't expected to find in Changsha.
One of my biggest takeaways so far in the short time I've
been here came as a result of checking in to the Foreign Student Office. I
found it strange that every time they referred to me, they used both my name
and my nationality. In some respects, those are two of the easiest ways to
identify the various foreign students who are here, but it felt like they were
using my nationality more like a signal than simply as an identifying
characteristic. Rachel suggested that they probably give me preference in
things like dorm room assignment a) because I’m from a developed country and
went to a university recognized by people in China and b) as a “saving face”
mechanism. I've since met a guy from England and mentioned how weird it felt to
receive special treatment. He told me he was used to it by now and has received
many free drinks in the bars he’s visited over the last couple years because he's a foreigner. I’d consider this pure hospitality except not
all nationalities are treated in the same way. I've definitely had a privileged
life with not much more than what has popularly become known as “first world
problems” (I apologize for the lack of political correctness). However, this is
the first time in my life I can remember where I was conspicuously singled out and treated
differently because of where I come from. Though I realize that many people
have a much keener understanding of how an individual’s background impacts the
way they are treated by others (usually in a negative way), this experience of
mine has made me think a little bit deeper than I have before what that really
means. It makes me feel like I’m an accomplice to injustice, and I can’t say it
makes me feel very comfortable. Just something for remember in the coming years…
A couple days after I checked in, I waltzed out of my dorm
room to find out that I was 10 minutes late for a foreigner physical that I
hadn't been told was happening. The bus was running late, so I was still able
to make it on, but I was definitely thrown off a bit. When we got to the
physical examination facility (yes, there is a facility that exists wholly for
this purpose), I was quickly educated on many differences between the way the
medical system works in China and the way it works in the United States. First,
as they took all of my information, they displayed it on a screen facing the
people who were lined up quite closely behind me. So much for HIPAA. First was
a blood test. I have to say that they were very efficient, but I was surprised
when they handed me my empty blood tubes
and told me to get in another line to have my blood drawn. I don’t know very
much about how the medical field works, but it seems to me that letting the
patient walk away with their blood test tubes is not the best way to insure the
integrity of the test. I then had to do an eye test, have my weight taken, have
an ultrasound, an EKG, and a chest x-ray. Privacy was definitely not the emphasis. People were
brought into the rooms for these various tests five or so people at a time. Women
had a curtain pulled for them while the tests were conducted but us guys did
not. I could live with all of this since I’m not personally that sensitive
about my medical information, but it was interesting to note the differences
from what I would have expected in the United States. Oh, and I saved the best
two observations for last! Right as I was getting over the fact that there was an
open-air rack at an unstaffed window where people were supposed to place their non-lidded
urine samples, the man in front of me lit a cigarette and started smoking. I
found the whole experience pretty enlightening, and it made me chuckle a bit.
Last Saturday, I did a short hike with the Addington family and some of their friends. Changsha has a fireworks show every week, and we wanted to watch it from the mountain behind CSU. The hike was pretty nice, and the company was even better. The view from the mountain allowed me to get a slightly clearer picture of what the city looks like. The exteriors of Chinese buildings have a lot more lights than American buildings, so that added to the effect. On Sunday, I went with Drew and Rachel to one of Changsha’s three-self churches (the state-sanctioned ones). I really enjoyed it, but I understood VERY little of what they said. It’s now one of my many personal goals to be able to understand a service before I leave China.
Last Saturday, I did a short hike with the Addington family and some of their friends. Changsha has a fireworks show every week, and we wanted to watch it from the mountain behind CSU. The hike was pretty nice, and the company was even better. The view from the mountain allowed me to get a slightly clearer picture of what the city looks like. The exteriors of Chinese buildings have a lot more lights than American buildings, so that added to the effect. On Sunday, I went with Drew and Rachel to one of Changsha’s three-self churches (the state-sanctioned ones). I really enjoyed it, but I understood VERY little of what they said. It’s now one of my many personal goals to be able to understand a service before I leave China.
Unfortunately, I still haven’t had much of an opportunity to
meet and make friends with many foreign students. Since classes still haven’t
started, people are left to their own devices to meet one another, and I've
found that people have a very strong propensity to gravitate toward others who
share their language, culture, etc. This being said, I have met someone from
Ghana, two people from the UK, one person from Russia, someone from Laos, and a
couple people from Vietnam. I’m very optimistic that it will be easier to break
down walls once classes begin and we see one another on a more regular basis. One
of Drew and Rachel’s Chinese friends has also been very helpful to me navigating
pieces of my transition, and I've met a couple other Chinese students as well. They
invited me to play basketball once it stops raining, and I’m looking forward to
the opportunity to hang out with them, even if playing costs me a fair bit of my ego
when all is said and done.
I will meet with my classmates and adviser next Saturday,
September 14th. We will get our class schedules then and begin our
classes the following week!
I’ll post some pictures of CSU and my dorm room when I have the opportunity.
Cheers!
Legit! I think one of the coolest parts of your trip is how you get to meet not just Chinese people, but also all those other foreign students. Vive la France!
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